Egusi soup: a complete beginner's guide

Egusi is one of the most forgiving soups in the West African pantry. The melon seed thickens almost anything, and the soup tastes a little different in every household — which is exactly the point.

Buy your egusi pre-ground if you can. If not, a clean coffee grinder works in short pulses. You want a fine, slightly oily powder, not a paste.

Start by frying chopped onions in palm oil until softened. Slowly stir in the ground egusi, breaking up clumps, until it forms little curds in the oil. This is the moment your soup gains body.

Add stock — meat stock, fish stock, or both — slowly, and let the egusi loosen and bubble. Drop in your protein: smoked fish, stockfish, or pre-cooked goat meat. Season with bouillon, dried crayfish, salt and chilli to taste.

Finish with bitter leaf or pumpkin leaves, just until they wilt. Serve hot with eba, pounded yam or fufu, and a glass of cold water on the side.